no need to envy. i just need to learn spanish and surfing and stuff and i'm getting old, you know.
one and a half days here and already sunburned and my arms are totally giving out. this surfing shit is hard. first day ever (bought a board last night - a long one) and i got up on my second wave! fucking head-high wave too. then i was like, 'well, that was an accident, because i suck.' So I thought I was a killer and then I ate giant shit on my next try and went in for lunch. pretty much collapsed from exhaustion the rest of the day and drove over to a pussy-type mellow beach break in a bay. Knee high, but I got my mechanics better, turned a bit, and think after one or two more wimp days I’ll cruise back over to the big dogs, then next week I ditch the 9’1” for a shortboard and shred like the champion I was always destined to be.
i've been so fucking lazy. so out of shape.
as long as my body gets stronger fast, i'll be going to the shortboard in ten days.
oh my silly dreams. so full of myself. just because i learned to snowboard in a day...
you have to admit though, that second wave...
and i had good crashes - getting up to my feet long enough to go right over the handlebars, stuff like that.
visited marlon this afternoon (he hooked me up with piko last night, who i bought my surfboard from and is aboout as awesome as marlon). he and i have some work to do with the car and getting my phone on track. those are, i think, my only responsibilities outside of maintaining the house (which actually isn't a total walk in the park with all this rain. or it's like a walk in the park on a day with all this rain, i guess.). i also need to get my spanish on a little harder, keep surfing, avoid sunburn, maybe make a friend or two, and write words for money-in-the-future.
a tall order, but i am the man for this job.
also, for the shittiest beach town in costa rica, it's pretty fucking sweet here. and the people are super friendly and patient with my spanish and all that good stuff. and, all i eat is beans.
adventure stories will follow. for now, just know that it's all ok down here, and if we're going to have a child together, we may come down here for the birthing, for the citizenship, because why not?